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George Koleff's Books
 

Shoe and Boot Designing Manual

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George Koleff was a Bulgarian Master Shoemaker who I met in Adelaide, South Australia where he had been living and teaching for some years.

It was through working with George that I became a teacher. He was a man who was free with his knowledge and his legacy lives on.

Contents

Part A... General Information
Tools and aids
Foot and Last Measurements
Shoe and Last Sizes
Geometric Method of Shoe Designing

Part B... Shoe Designs
Men's Derby Shoe
Men's Derby with Decorated Quarters
Men's Oxford Shoe
Men's Oxford with Decorated Quarters
Men's Shoes with Side Buttons
Men's Shoes - Brogue Style
Men's Slip On Shoes
Men's Slip On Shoes with Saddle
Men's Sandals cut in one piece
Sandals using Veldtshoen Method
Ladies Shoe Designs
Ladies Derby Shoe
Ladies Oxford Shoe
Ladies Oxford with Wing Cap and Counter
Ladies Shoes with Single Strap, Oxford
Ladies Shoes with Single Strap, Court Shoe
Ladies Shoes with Double Strap, Oxford
Ladies Court Shoes, High Cut
Ladies Court Shoes, Low Cut
Ladies Slippers
Ankle High Slippers
House Slippers

Part C... Boot Designs
Ankle Boots, Constructing the Standard
Derby Boots
Balmoral Boots
Ankle Boots, Side Buttons
Columbus Boots
Elastic Side Boots
Elastic Side Boots with Vamp
Derby Hiking Boots with Full Vamp and Bellows Tounge
Hiking Boots cut in One Piece
Ski Boots with Flap cut in One Piece
Football Boots
Shoes for Light Athletics
Ladies Ankle Boots with Side Openings
Ladies Boots, 3/4 Height and Side Buttons
Skating Boots
Hunting and Motorcycle Boots
Dress Knee Boots
Western Cowboy Boots
Ladies Boots, Western Style
Ladies Zip-up Knee Boots
Fisherman's or Thigh Boots
Napoleon Boots

Part D... Alternative Designing Methods
Copying a Shoe Design from a Picture
Modifying Lasts
Last Copying Methods
Combining the Last Copying Method with the Geometric Method
Moccasin Style Shoe

Part E... Additional Information
Pattern Grading Methods
Supplementary Information for Knee Boots
Improved Blocking Method using Blocking Clamps
Tables
Formulae for Calculating Foot Measurements
Glossary of Terms

This text book teaches the Geometric Method of Pattern Cutting which is based on foot measurements, not last measurements. Pattern Cutting incorporates designing too, so if you can imagine a design, then learning to cut patterns will help you move from there to the reality of a pair of finished shoes.

Mouse over the cover image to see the contents, click the menu to hide it again.

This was George's major work, one that he spent many years perfecting. It is a testament to him that the knowledge is passed on and used by so many shoemakers world wide.

Included with each book is a plastic square with all the angles you need already marked for you.

It is ideally suited to a handmaking system because the measurements are taken from measuring an individual's feet.

This method is a really simple one once you follow it, and can be used instantly by anyone. It differs from the covered-last method of pattern cutting in that you build up the last after you have done the patterns.

I taught using this method for some years, and am satisfied that it is a useful, and accurate system, and can recommend it to anyone.

boot and shoe collage

At left is a collage of patterns taken from the Shoe and Boot Designing Manual.

George had learned a method of pattern cutting in Europe, that uses a geometric method for finding the angles and measurements required. This system seems odd at first glance, but in practice, works remarkably well.

The formulae for doing this is straightforward and if you go step by step everything falls into place.

This system was first invented and published in 1879 by Robert Knofel, and by using this book, you too can make a very large variety of footwear.

A plastic square is included in the book.

 

 

Shoe and Boot Designing Manual - George Koleff

boot and shoe cover

For a copy of the Shoe and Boot Designing Manual, please follow the prompts below.

Price for Shoe and Boot Design Manual is $96.00 AUD + postage.

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Special Offer #2.

Save $11.18 AUD boot and shoe cover bespoke shoemaking book coveron a combined package of George Koleff's Boot and Shoe Design Manual and Bespoke Shoemaking.

Price for Shoe and Boot Design plus Bespoke Shoemaking is $224.20 AUD + postage.

Australia Only.

Mainland USA / Canada only.

Fiji, New Caledonia, PNG, Philippines, Sri Lanka, only

Ireland, France, UK, Germany, Italy, Netherlands, Norway, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, only

Austria, Belgium, Finland, Greece, Malta, Poland, South Africa, Brazil, only

China, Hong Kong,Japan, India, Indonesia, S.Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, only.

NZ only.

Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam only.